One of the things I’m learning about rebuilding a classic car is how and where to get the bits I need. Like all things there’s a pay-off depending on the driving forces at the time.
SC parts are a staple supplier, they carry most things and have a great delivery system. The down side is they cost a bit more than others. British Parts are generally cheaper, but have a much smaller range and I’ve had issues with missing bits which they wont replace because I didn’t advise them with in 3 nano-seconds of receiving the box (just a tad of exaggeration there). Ebay is generally low cost but a bit of a lottery as to what you get – although many of the main suppliers sell stuff on Ebay that works out cheaper than there own on line shop. Something to look out for.
I recently found The Hutson Motor group in Bradford, they were falling over themselves to be helpful, had a massive range of parts available and took the time to show me round their very impressive facility when I popped in to collect a dash panel.
Then there’s Ward Engineering, I considered rebuilding the hubs myself, but I lack the measuring equipment necessary and there are some turned parts needed as part of the assembly process and I was a little conscious of messing it up. So I went to Ward as they describe themselves as the best… I sent my hubs and calipers off for a rebuild on 24th April on an advised 2-3 week lead time. They finally turned up on 8th July 11 weeks later. Not only were they late, they were sent to the wrong address and when I finally retrieved them a couple of parts were missing, one being the locking wire. None of this detracts from the quality of their work, which looks excellent, just be careful if the job is time critical.
So the forced hiatus that I’ve had on the suspension rebuild is over – at least when I’ve sourced the missing bits from Ward – and I can get the old girl back onto 4 wheels again.
I started with the shimming of the diff mounting brackets. I’d already tried to use a feeler gauge, but theres nothing like doing it properly, with real parts, so I ordered a bunch more than I thought I needed.
So, process, as described in Jerry Preston-Ladds article. I pushed the shaft through the cage mounting and let the thread engage with the mounting bracket hole. As the shaft is a bigger diameter you can see how the alignment is between the shaft and the hole. Add a shim, do it again. One happy with that one I pushed the shaft all the way through to the second cage mount and used the alignment method the determine the shims needed there. Do it for both sides.
Its not a 5 minute job, but its worth doing right.
The absence of locking wire meant I couldn’t do a whole lot more on the IRS, so I went about assembling the brakes.
heres one calliper just resting on the new disk. What I actually needed to do was assemble the handbrake calipers to the main callipers.
Lots of trial building going on to make sure I had all the bits aligned right – you cant be too careful and a couple of trial fits to make sure the finished caliper would go back properly
The its a case of lubricating everything with wheel bearing grease (not copper clip – which cant handle the high temperatures) and tightening the new pins and securing with the new locking tabs, adding the brake pipes
Meanwhile I’ve been rebuilding the dashboard to get that into a tip top condition, the Rev counter and speedo refurb were covered last time, heres what else has been going on with the dash area.
the Hutsons replacement dash looks the business with the referbed parts and new indicator unit.
I’m modifying the choke lever to work on a micro switch and then I think I’m done 🙂
Once the locking wire is here, I can continue with the IRS build, but before I go, id like to talk about the bolts. Each and every bolt taken off has been individually cleaned on the wire wheel, pickled and then oil coated. It takes a bit of time but it means I don’t introduce thread contamination and it looks good…
right, till next time in the work of skinned knuckles, I bid you farewell