Clutching at Straws….

You have no idea how hard it is to find a clutch kit for a series 1 or 2 XJ6… There are some specialists who’ll relieve you of many hundreds of pounds for one because it fits an E Type, therefore you must have one and ergo you have more money than sense. I have more sense than money and my sense is rapidly becoming incensed.

Twice I’ve hit the buy it now button from the well known retched hive of  villainy, otherwise known as E-bay. Twice I’ve been told “we don’t do them any more” so take the twatting listing down you moron – I thought.

Finally I came across a listing claiming to have the very part in stock, and cheaper than the others too. Northern Components were the vendor, I clicked the link, paid (again) and sat back for the “we’re sorry we don’t have that part in stock” email. But No, the next email was a dispatch notification, followed by a txt advising when the driver would be here and shortly after a new clutch kit was in my office. Thats office, not orifice, which, incidentally is where I was going to shove the ebay’ers non existent listings.

E Type Clutch kit

Genuine parts, and a snip of a price. Rear water jacket cover fitted…

XKE engine rear

Next job was to replace the flywheel, this had previously been skimmed and balanced by W Drake in Bradford. New locking plate, of course, just the six bolts and ta-dar…

E-TYpe flywheel

The Pressure plate locating holes needed opining out a little to accept the three flywheel dowels, just a paint thickness, and it all bolted up nicely. I kept the pressure plate finger tight so I could still move the friction plate as the alignment is tricky. The friction plate to gearbox clearance is bugger all of nothing and I needed to ensure adjustment.

E Type clutch

E-Type clutch

I also did the last few minor jobs and we’ll call the engine complete as it need to be at this stage. I’m using new mountings and this will need adjustment, hence the manifolds are going to stay off until after the rewire (which is the next major job).

For now I just want to take a minute to compare where we came from….

 

Rebuilding the engine has been a journey interspaced with long periods of inactivity. Meanwhile the end is in sight and once the wiring is done – along with new brake lines – the engine and box can go back in and after a few smallish jobs are tackled, I’ll finally be driving the old girl!

Can’t wait…..

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Heading for Victory

XJ6 cam chain

Whats missing from this picture? well,  the rest of the engine, obviously, but specifically I should have added the cam speckets at this point, more of this later… The other thing I didnt do is check that the upper chain tensioner moved smoothly. I didnt and, once assembled, it didn’t.

So back off it came and sure enough the bugger wouldn’t budge.

e type cam chain tensioner

Time for some light persuasion… With the aid of a deep socket I tapped the tensioner free

xk cam chain

It didn’t take much and there wasn’t any real pick up, it was just held in with crud

XJ6 cam chain tensioner

Once cleaned up it was all re-assembled and then it was time to add the timing cover, which was easy enough. I borrowed Jerry’s technique of seating the crank oil seal in the timing cover and sliding it along the crank. Worked well and didn’t damage the seal.

The sump came next and, again, all very straight forward.

Now to add the new head bolts. I unpacked the parts sent by David Manners many moons ago. I’d gone for the 4 long studs pack as I like the look of the lifting lugs. I would use them to actually lift the lump, but they look nice….

Here’s the set unpacked…

XK xj6 head studs

I have three long studs to match the 4 mounting holes. Something has gone awry…

So, armed with my best argumentative voice I called David Manners to tell them the parts they supplied… cough… two years ago were, in fact, wrong.

Called the help line, gave them my postcode, waited…

Sorry sir cant find the order, oh, it wasn’t 2015 was it?

Well, yes, as a matter of fact it was. Can’t rush an engine build….

No problem, what do you need?

Well, just another long stud…

No problem, I’ll get it in the post tonight.

Next day it turned up, express courier, FOC. Now thats what I cann customer service, if you need parts for your Jag, go there first. Top company….

david manners

So, equipped with the new studs, re-assembly can continue….

Oh, there’s a new water pump in there too, that came to DMG as well, as did the new core plugs.

Now time to drop the head on. Freshly painted in the correct Harvest Gold, specially mixed by HMG paints, and add the new head nuts and lifting lugs.

E type engine

This picture shows the cam sprockets fitted. This wasn’t actually as easy as you might think. Early on in this post I advised that I’d forgotten to fit these before the head. I found out to my cost that there’s no way they’ll fit with the cams in place, to time to pull them out again. Its not actually the worst idea, the head was built up over a year ago, so pulling the cams allowed me add new oil to the bearings and fill the camshaft oilway at the same time. Once the cams are out the sprockets need to be pulled apart. Remove the circlip and pull the inner sprocket from the splined on outer (should have photographed this as its a work of art) slide the inner home and then – like a Chinese puzzle, feel the sprocket outer into the chain.

Re-installing the cams needs a little jig to hold the cam in the right position whilst the journal caps are torqued down. Without it there is no way to hold the cam as it pushed just one valve almost fully down and therefore, the force of the spring spins the crank.

With the cams torqued back down align the sprocket mounting holes, noting that they are off set on purpose, and then re-engage the splines before replacing the circlip and tightening the bolts… It can be done – but I wouldn’t call it easy…

Once that’s done, there’s just a few bits and bobs to add, such as the flywheel, beforerI can call the block built.

It is a work of art though. Modern engines could never look as pretty…

built 2

Built

I think I’m just one blog post from closing the Engine chapter, happy days!

The (woodruff) Key to Success

As I was finishing up my last stint in the garage, I realised I’d lost my first part. Despite a pathological need to bag every single piece in zip lock bags with sharpie written descriptions I’d lost a bit. Bugger.

The bit is question was only a woodruff  key from the end of the crank (the other two identical keys had made it into and out of the bag). Could be worse, I’ll just get onto SC parts and order a replacement. So I did. Then things took a turn for the worse. Read on….

The reason I like SC Parts is they lay the site out like the Jaguar parts manual, making it easy to find stuff. Here’s the page…

xj6 woodruff kek

The fella I need is part 88…

woodruff key - e type

Now SC parts are a bit pricey and yes £4.33 seemed a bit steep, but time is valuable too (check out the we buy any car advert, now with added desperation) So I added it to the basket and checked out…

Right about then Dick Turpin came riding on to my PC. It wasn’t so much “stand and deliver” as “how much to deliver?”

SC Parts £12.95?? for a sodding woodruff key? It’d be cheaper to send a taxi for it. Must be a mistake, said my misguided faith in human nature, I’ll give them a call. So I did.

Nice chap answers the phone, I tell him what it says on the screen and he says,

“yep, that’s right. We only have couriers”

Cant you use royal mail?

“Err it’s policy to use a courier, but” said the man positive he could turn round the situation with a special offer, “you could by loads more stuff and it wouldn’t cost any more.”

“Really, so anything else I want I get for free?” (smartarse mode is firmly engaged at this point.

“Er, no, but the postage wouldn’t cost any more.”

“But I don’t need anything else, otherwise, (you thick twat – I thought), I would have bought it”

“Ah”, said the man, drawing on his never fail, reserve argument, “you could buy a couple of gallons of oil, it will always come in handy”

“Listen pal, if I had any more oil I’d have to join OPEC”

“In that case, ‘Sir’ (sir being an anagram for ‘bastard customer’ – some letters need to be added, obviously) I can’t help you”

Finally, some kind of sense.

Back to my Jaguar parts book, google the part number, stocked by David Manners, a far more reasonable 81p  and £5.50 to deliver, total, with vat, £7.57 almost a tenner less than SC Parts or 56% less if you like percentages.

David Manners

It arrived, two days later, by post…

Well done David manners I’ll start with you in future.

Rebuilding old cars can be a bloody mine field and an expensive one at that. It really does pay to shop around, even at the bottom end of the price bracket.

Bet I lose the bugger before it gets fitted…..

 

The Big Build….

After the trauma of the first attempt, the block and main caps had been line bored, time to see how much of a difference that made. The call came mid week “your block is ready” which translates roughly to “you bank account will soon be empty”. Still, full of the reckless abandonment of hope, I sent off in the company van to recover said block, I drop off my worldly net worth at the same time.

The chap at Drakes has build the crank into the block to check the results of the line boring, but stressed to me that it needed stripping back down again and cleaning thoroughly before re-assembly…

So I did as I was advised and for the second time went about cleaning the block and all the oil ways, I had previously invested in a borescope which comes in handy for checking the main oil way.

All was good and using the 12 bore shot gun brush I’d bought previously cleaning the last remnants of remaining swarf was a doddle.

That done, time to replace my feeble first attempt at the rope seal, any more problems with the rope and I think I’d be hanging from one… This time all went to plan and it seemed like I’d done a half decent job. I checked the two haves whilst the crank was out and they were tight but moving – not dissimilar to me on a night out.

Main shells back in, upper rope seal mounted, and crank laid back in. Center main in place and end float was good. So torqued all the caps up and, thank the lord, we still had movement.

Jaguar crank assembly

Pistons next, lets just take a minute to savor the lovely box of Mahle goodies.

Mahle pistons

All the old circlips and gudgeon pins came out easily, and the new ones slipped on equally easily. Word of caution, circlips were originally invented as a Japanese fighting weapon. They have been know to take the eyes out of invading enemies before vanishing from the face of the earth. Beware and treat them with the reverence they deserve.

Before inserting the pistons check the rings, they came from the factory with the ring gaps all lined up. Not good, the gaps should be spaced apart to avoid blow through. I always avoid blow through, it can be painful at times….

Jaguar piston rings

Rings positioned cirrectly and with a squirt of oil it was time for the ring compressor.

Oiling the bores thoroughly before insertion and making sure the pistons all pointed to the front as they should, tapping each piston home with a hammer shaft – feeling for the click as they slip home and making sure a ring didn’t pop out of the clamp. All this while first making sure that the con rods were all on the right journal and facing the right way. Job done.

All done and still turning freely.

I sat the engine up again before inserting the distributer/oil pump drive. Positioning is a rough process as the timing will be set later and it just a case of getting the off set slot in the distributer roughly in the right place at TDC.

Jag oil pump

Another simple task crossed off.

Next was to put the partially assembled block on to the engine stand and assemble the cam chains.

The upper cam chain is like an origami puzzle, specifically the chain catcher bit.

but what’s a few fingers between friends?

Its the puzzle of getting the bolt through the cain catcher and the casting, into the spacer (which you have to hold with long nose pliers because your fingers wont reach) through the chain guide and into the block. Sounds easy doesnt it?? I’ve decided the Jaguar engine line was staffed by these guys…

pans-labyrinth

That was it for that day, except to say I’ve found my first missing part from the strip down, its only a woodruff key and should be easy enough to replace. Until next time….

thats all folks

 

At braking point….

given the debarcle with the crankshaft, I used the rest of the day to fit the   OBP pedal box. Its a nice piece of kit but as the master cylinders are the other side of the bulkhead 38mm holes have to be drilled and there not much clearance between the master cylinder body hole and the mounting points..

IMG_7851

You can see the problem in the above picture. My drilling is about as accurate as a Jeremy Corbyn manifesto, so I needed and ingenious solution.

Its easy to line the pedal box up and drill the mountings, using and 8.5mm bit to mark the centre and then pilot drill before going full size. I did thin and bolted the box in place.

Next I’ll need a hole saw, as opposed to a sore hole (I miss  Janet and John )

Next came a rare flash of inspiration which might be of use to others, so here goes. The hole diameter required is 38mm, so with a 38 mm hole saw I drilled a pick of 25mm timber.

IMG_7852

I carefully prised the slug out of the hole saw. The slug is smaller than 38mm so I wrapped gaffer tape around it until it was back to the correct size

IMG_7853

I then used it as a guide to mark the centre of the master cylinder hole.

IMG_7854

Pilot grill through the centre, and hey presto…

IMG_7855

Next the fairly simple job of adding the master cylinders, set to 50/50 for the brakes front to rear.

The brakes will be treated to all new lines, but that’s a job for another day.

Rage against the Machine (shop)

Engine rebuild day dawned, finally all the little bits in the garage would become one big bit, or at least that was the plan.

Block mounted on the engine stand, old shells in place, crank positioned

IMG_7834

So, time to attack the dreaded….

e type rope seal

The rope seals had been soaking in premium engine oil for two days….

IMG_7837

The two seal holders were clean, and we were ready for the off. I added an inch of gasket sealer to the leading edge of the holder (when viewed from the rear the crank spins anticlockwise)

IMG_7839

Then it was time for the dreaded rolling, I used a hammer shaft and starting at the centre worked the seal into the slot moving outwards. This took about 20 minutes and all looked good.

I used a stanley blade to shave off the excess and then clamped it to the crank.

IMG_7844

BUGGER, it way just too tight. I took the two halves apart and then lightly hammered the hammer shaft I’d used to roll the seal into place. One half did give a little, clamped them back up and the fit was fine, tight but could be rotated by hand. Problem was that extra bit of give left me with a 3mm gap.

IMG_7848

Double bugger and a new set of seals required.

Oh well, on with the setting of the crank on the mains.

IMG_7845

Lovely new shells in place. Lowered the crank into position and added the centre main cap (as this has the thrust bearings in and I wanted to check end float). As soon as I got beyond finger tight on the bolts the crank locked up. I needed a breaker bar to shift it – not good.

I spent the next two hours faffing around shells out and cleaned, old thrusts tried, the remaining bearing caps fitted loosely, every time the crank locked up.

Something isnt right.

The crank mic’d up as 20 tho under standard (as it should, having been ground) the shells mic at 10 tho each over the originals (matches the crank) maybe the mains have been ground a little eccentric. That I cant check though. So, strip it all down again, pack up in the Landy and back to the machine shop so they can figure out whats wrong.

The crank was as free as a bird, pre regrind, something much have happened during the grinding. I’ll report back when they’ve done the investigation and can shed some light on the problem….

Meanwhile, its back to the brakes, oh and order some more….

e type rope seal

🙂

We’re off again….

There’s been something of a hiatus on Lady Marilyn its been the best part of a year since I made any meaningful progress. Obi-wan Preston-Ladd asked how things were going and I had to admit they weren’t. He then proceeded to tell me of his latest Challenger adventure and my enthusiasm crawled out from the rock it had been hiding under and decided to make its presence felt.

I needed a list. So here it is.

  1. properly fit the new column (kindly donated by Anthony Terence Jones)
  2. Fit the new main dash panel
  3. buy and fit the pedal box.
  4. Rebuild the engine (this just gets one entry on the list)
  5. New brake pipes and fuel lines
  6. Make the engine fit
  7. Replace / remake the internal panels
  8. Full Re-wire
  9. Fit the screen properly.

That’s the starter for 9.

These things always start with shopping. A flurry of activity saw me locate a new Pedal box (top mounted) send the block for honeing, purchase various known bits for the engine rebuild.

The column was a five minute job, but I needed a new boss for the wheel, remember the old one with the screw in it?

IMG_4763

I am still undecided where the wheel will end up in relation to the seat and pedals, so I went for a cheap boss in the first instance, just to have something to use as a datum.

steering wheel boss

Heres the new boss, cheap as chips and will allow me to get all the relative dims sorted.  Now, study the picture carefully, are there any other uses of this boss that spring to mind? No? Well when the paypal invoice came it, its from “Sexual Healing” Christ know swhat they were healing with that….

sexual healing

Jag owners are a strange bunch….

Back to relative normality, next I trial fitted the dash panel, I lined this up with the glove box which hasn’t been off but It left a gap between the dash top and screen. Taking the gap away left the rec-counter hitting the column bracket. Then I realised the screen wasn’t correctly installed, and needed new seals. Plus Jerry advised that this sometimes happens and a piece of seal can be added to the dash top to cover smallish gaps.

I refit later and it started to look better…

 

Meanwhile the the retarded world of brakes, I removed the old brake and clutch master cylinders. For reasons know only to fully paid up members of “Exit” the original twin circuit had been replaced with a single circuit system. This was unnecessarily dangerous and look shite too.

master cyl

A couple of bolts later the assembly was on the bench and I could marvel at its fully glory…

What a piece of shit.

Next came the top mounted OBP pedal box. Out of the box  and straight into a problem. There is a 25mm x 25mm box all the way around the end of the footwell. If I spaced the pedal box back 25mm the master cylinders would be poking out of the endplate and be impossible to seal, If I dropped the pedal box down 25mm to sit under the rail then the master cylinder fouled a chassis member. Bugger.

Only one thing for it, go for a floor mounted pedal box (which is available with the 25 x 25 cut out) and bang the top mounted one on Ebay. So that’s what I did. I few days later the top mounted version sold for what I paid for it and went to a chap building a 6R4 replica. The floor mounted version turned up and tits lovely. Everyone’s a winner.

The new pedal box is here and spot on. Mounting holes drilled just waiting for a 38mm hole saw.  You really cant beat a hole saw, it’ll make it worse.

Meanwhile the block was back from the machine shop, bores nicely honed and with the added advantage of having gone through their parts washer.

Its such a heavy block lifting gear was required before I could get it out of the borrowed works van.

e type block

but a little while later it was on the engine stand again.

The Rope seals are the next job…. Yes, you heard, its the…..

e type rope seal

In preparation the two rope seals are soaking in engine oil, soon their time will come….

Meanwhile a couple of minor jobs, painting the head in the correct Harvest Gold, specially mixed for me by HMG paints, and looking very dapper it is too.

e type head

The Mahle pistons have turned up, they’ll get fitted after the….

e type rope seal

More in a few days when the “you know what” gets done.

e type s1 ots

 

On your marks, get set, wait…..

Its been such a long time since I updated progress on Lady Marilyn you’d be forgiven for thinking I’d given up. Absolutely not the case, just taking a bit of a breather and sorting other stuff out. Poo has gone, Herman has arrived (and new toys just HAVE to be played with – it’s the Law) plus I’ve been working for a living too – and work has been manic….

So, when we left the story the venerable lump was out and mounted on its engine stand, the head was off, the studs were all loose and everything was going well…

I took the head to W. Drake in Bradford (http://www.wdrake.co.uk/)  for pressure testing and cleaning. Just a quick job, or so I thought. As is always the way with testing, it revealed the need for more work. The head was leaking from the core plugs, the guides needed replacing, the seats could do with updating too and… and…and…. So I took the easy (but not cheap) route and told them to fully fettle it for me.

Drakes are very good but like, Ward Engineering, you couldn’t accuse them of being quick. To be fair I hadn’t been in the zone to do much during that time and no harm was done. Then 4 months later, like the second coming, the phone rang to tell me my head had finally arrived in the dispatch bay. Was I ready for it? Was I bloody hell!

 

E Type Jaguar head 2

 

E Type Jaguar head

And so the head was duly collected. Sadly Drakes don’t do the gold paint required for the head so once again I turned to the internet for guidance.

What’s the best way to walk from the kitchen to the stairs? If you follow the internet’s advice you’d leave by the backdoor, walk to Droitwich before hailing a cab to the train station heading for Seaton Sluice (real place), taking the bus to the front door and right there you’ll find the stairs.

This is how it was when I tried to track the paint down, about a million web pages later I’d arrived at HMG paints (https://www.hmgpaint.com/) who do a decent approximation to Jaguars Harvest Gold (the generally accepted shade used on the later S1 E Type heads). At least they had an outlet a couple of miles from work and I could happily collect said material in my lunchtime. So that was done and another part accumulated.

Meanwhile, back to the block and time to see what’s happening down below.

I span the engine over on the stand and whipped off the sump. To be fair there were no nasties floating around in there, but a ton of sludge had accumulated. A simple degrease was all that was needed.

 

E Type Jaguar sump

I put the sump back on, masked the top end and cleaned up the block ready for a fresh coat of paint. Probably the wrong sequence this, but it made me feel like I’d made more progress than I actually had….

IMG_6034

During the rebuild hiatus I tried to convince myself I was still doing meaningful work by accumulating all the bits for the rebuild, timing chains, tensioners, gaskets, seals and new head studs were waiting for the head to come back, and waiting, and waiting and so on…

Time to play catch up, uncover the block and take a peek at the bottom end and once again all looked pretty good.

E Type Jaguar  crank 1

From what I could see of the cylinders they were all pretty good.

I pulled the big ends out and they looked good. In many ways that’s the worst thing that could have happened. If they’d been worn it would have been a black and white crank grind, but they were fine.

Interestingly it appears the shells came from Gustav Graves Diamond mine in Iceland…

IMG_6457

Next, pull the mains. Here there was wear, so the decision became easy – off to the grinders after all.

E Type Jaguar main bearing shell

So, strip off the oil pump and pipework, remove the big ends and pull the pistons before taking off the mains and lifting the crank out

E Type Jaguar crank

E Type Jaguar block

IMG_6499

Next pull the oil pump drive and cam chain pulley

and off to the grinders it goes, along with the fly wheel which needs skimming too.

I’d bought a bore gauge to check the wear on the cylinders to decide if a re-bore was also on the cards. Neat bit of kit, checked its calibration at a friend of mines climate controlled measuring room (all very posh – but useful too) and it was bob-on.

Assemble the necessary configuration of collars and pin and we’re ready to go.

IMG_6507

Happily the bores show very little wear

IMG_6506

The base line measurement at the bottom of the bore was 0.05mm, maximum measured wear was 0.04mm, well within the 0.15 specification. Finally something that doesn’t need doing and isn’t anywhere close enough to “do it anyway” logic.

Now I can get into the oil ways and have everything spic and span for when the crank comes home.

Until next time, once again its….

thats all folks

Break out the Acme chemistry set..

Jaguar head studs were first conceived in the heat of a S&M session, probably. A man with bulldog clips on his nipples while receiving 40 lashes had a sudden rush of something, lets call it inspiration (for want of a better word) and decided to tap the inside of the water jacket to receive the studs. Here those studs would be free to corrode to their hearts content – thank you sir, may I have another – and some poor smuck would have to free those wasted away studs from the corrosion hell of the water jacket years later – after you with the jar of bees and scrotum seal – all in all a terribly good idea, if your mind works that way.

Back to the here and now and I had become that smuck, Jaguar in their wisdom had allowed the victim, sorry, rebuilder, to see the extent of his torture be revealing what was left of the head studs via the core plugs.

On a cold and blustery day in November I find myself going down the path of whylie Coyote with my very own chemistry project. The “why” was fairly simple. As mentioned . My studs had corroded significantly and were really narrow at the point that they went into the block. If they sheared I was in real trouble, so this was an important job.

e type core plugs

I googled to find the best penetrating oil to give me a head start, among the usual suspects of PJ1 and WD40 was a thread on a Do-it-yourself formula, acetone and ATF mixed 50:50. Some testing had been done and the alleged results gave the best performance. But its flammable and explosive…

So, here I am, standing at my bench with bottles of acetone and ATF, a measuring jug and a vague urge to check the house insurance cover. Does this come under the terrorism act or the soon to be released stupidity act 2015.

acetone and atf

My mind wandered back through the decades to my first Scout camp. I must have been age 11 or 12 at the time and it was a very exciting event. Tents were erected, wood chopped and a roaring camp fire established outside our patrol tent. The Patrol leader told me to put some water on the fire. It sounded a shame to do that after all the effort to get it going in the first place, but being the patrol junior I did as I was told and out went the fire. Noooooooo shouted the patrol leader, I meant in a billy can you wazzock.

And that is the problem with instructions, you have to hear them as they were meant to be heard. So, my instruction from a faceless individual over the medium of the internet (which as we all know is 100% reliable….) was to mix acetone and ATF in a 50:50 ratio. In for a penny in for a long-stretch-in-casualty….

Happily nothing exploded, the vapour didn’t kill me and the resultant pink fluid looks mostly inert. So I dried out the previous WD40, that I’d been applying daily for more than a week, and sprayed the new concoction onto the base of the studs.

It sat this way for a day or so before I decided it was time to tackle the actual removal.

I thought a lot about how to stand the best chance of getting them out whole. The normal option would be to lock two nuts together and apply pressure. I decided to try a different route and welded one of the head nuts to the stud so that I could use the windy gun to put some shock loading through the studs.

Jaguar 4.2 head studs

Obi-Wan Preston-Ladd had suggested using a little heat as well, so I dried out the new fluid (explosive remember) and very cautiously flashed the flame over the area. To my delight, nothing blew up….

So I added more heat

xk4.2 studs

after about 5 minutes of heating (its only a propane burner after all) I took he heat away gingerly added some of the new fluid hoping it wasn’t hot enough to go bang, and fired up the windy gun…

Jaguar 4.2 long studs

a couple of minutes of rattling and hey presto! thank the lord of the internal combustion engine, the stud broke free…. Using the same technique on the other 7 they all freed off nicely..

I haven’t taken them out yet as I want to clear all the crud from that water jackets and don’t want it falling into the threads. I will be posting pictures of them once out though, just to illustrate how bad they were…

Off with her head…..

With the lump out of the car, it was time to have a poke around. first job to split the gearbox off

e type engine 4.2

Easy enough even it there are loads of bolts to undo, all of them behaved and quick as a flash….

IMG_5329

Next came the pressure plate and low and behold, the friction plate is knackered… It was getting changed anyhow so no great shakes, what is amazing is how well it drove in the state it was in, no judders and a smooth take off..

e type clutch

The flywheel will need dressing too when I rebuild as there is some marking on the surface, but again, no great shakes.

I bought an engine stand to make life easier which is both a good and less good thing. The stand itself is fine, but as its the heavy duty version its too wide at the front to get the crane in and mount the engine, it needed a bit of swing….

e type engine stand

I needed some longer bolts to mount the engine to the stand and I wasn’t entirely confident that they’s be ok, but they’ve turned out fine. I mounted the engine and left the crane on loose while I rocked, pushed and lent on the engine and all was good. I used 4 inch long 3/8 UNF bolts, grade 10.9 to be safe, they were fine with a few hardened washers. – but I could have gotten away with 3.5″. I figured I could add washers, but it was harder to add length – god knows I’m aware of that problem.

Once all was tight, secure and generally very happy, I added some degreaser and a light jet wash, it didn’t need much, another telltale that the engine hasn’t seen much use in all its years in the car.

xj6 engine

 

Now for the head studs, as hidden behind the core plugs. As mentioned previously corrosion is very much evident and they need to be changed. I cleared the crud out with the aid of a dentists pick and airline and left the soaking in WD40 whilst I get on with other jobs. This part of the project weighs heavily on my mind and I’ve sent and SOS to my friend, and resident expert, Jerry Preston-Ladd of the challenger owners club for advice. If I shag this up I could be looking at a new block…

IMG_5311 e type core plugs

Before stripping the engine I’d done compression checks and all seemed fine. but the head needs to come off anyway for general inspection and any remedial work necessary, so it was out with the crane again.

Having released the tension on the top cam chain, I undid the 4 bolts per cam sprocket and slid them along the tracks to clear the head. This is a great design feature, made the whole exercise so much easier… I also tie wrapped the cam chain to the sprockets first – not entirely sure why as its getting changed anyway, but, at the time it seemed like a good idea. Unlike many of my other “good idea at the time” decisions, this one wont cost me a house 🙂

e type engine

Next I took off all the head nuts and the 6 bolts at the front of the engine and introduced the crane again. With a little load on the head and wd 40 sprayed around each of the head studs to my surprise the head began to move…

Jaguar 4.2 head removal

I’ve heard so many horror stories of the heads being corroded onto the blocks, but mine just lifted easily requiring nothing more and a gentle rocking to make sure it lifted evenly. Before I knew it I had a head off….

jaguar 4.2 head

Happy days!

There is something very satisfying about engine rebuilds, its like surgery, bringing life back to those who were losing it. I mean, how hard can an operation be? Surgeons don’t have to worry about differential corrosion, collects or cam timing…. Tish, easy life…

Just a little time left for a quick glance at the bores and pistons, and yet again, all looks good. This appears to be a low mileage engine that’s just suffering from a lack of use, so often the problems with cherished cars…

e type pistonJaguar bore

My time with this phase had run out… and it was time to pack up for the evening. Daughter Sophy decided that I didn’t need the full 4.2 litres of jaguar engineering and, apparently, daughter power trumps horse power every time.

 

IMG_5350 IMG_5353

I’ll see how she likes it when I connect the propshaft…..

thats all folks