At braking point….

given the debarcle with the crankshaft, I used the rest of the day to fit the   OBP pedal box. Its a nice piece of kit but as the master cylinders are the other side of the bulkhead 38mm holes have to be drilled and there not much clearance between the master cylinder body hole and the mounting points..


You can see the problem in the above picture. My drilling is about as accurate as a Jeremy Corbyn manifesto, so I needed and ingenious solution.

Its easy to line the pedal box up and drill the mountings, using and 8.5mm bit to mark the centre and then pilot drill before going full size. I did thin and bolted the box in place.

Next I’ll need a hole saw, as opposed to a sore hole (I miss  Janet and John )

Next came a rare flash of inspiration which might be of use to others, so here goes. The hole diameter required is 38mm, so with a 38 mm hole saw I drilled a pick of 25mm timber.


I carefully prised the slug out of the hole saw. The slug is smaller than 38mm so I wrapped gaffer tape around it until it was back to the correct size


I then used it as a guide to mark the centre of the master cylinder hole.


Pilot grill through the centre, and hey presto…


Next the fairly simple job of adding the master cylinders, set to 50/50 for the brakes front to rear.

The brakes will be treated to all new lines, but that’s a job for another day.

Rage against the Machine (shop)

Engine rebuild day dawned, finally all the little bits in the garage would become one big bit, or at least that was the plan.

Block mounted on the engine stand, old shells in place, crank positioned


So, time to attack the dreaded….

e type rope seal

The rope seals had been soaking in premium engine oil for two days….


The two seal holders were clean, and we were ready for the off. I added an inch of gasket sealer to the leading edge of the holder (when viewed from the rear the crank spins anticlockwise)


Then it was time for the dreaded rolling, I used a hammer shaft and starting at the centre worked the seal into the slot moving outwards. This took about 20 minutes and all looked good.

I used a stanley blade to shave off the excess and then clamped it to the crank.


BUGGER, it way just too tight. I took the two halves apart and then lightly hammered the hammer shaft I’d used to roll the seal into place. One half did give a little, clamped them back up and the fit was fine, tight but could be rotated by hand. Problem was that extra bit of give left me with a 3mm gap.


Double bugger and a new set of seals required.

Oh well, on with the setting of the crank on the mains.


Lovely new shells in place. Lowered the crank into position and added the centre main cap (as this has the thrust bearings in and I wanted to check end float). As soon as I got beyond finger tight on the bolts the crank locked up. I needed a breaker bar to shift it – not good.

I spent the next two hours faffing around shells out and cleaned, old thrusts tried, the remaining bearing caps fitted loosely, every time the crank locked up.

Something isnt right.

The crank mic’d up as 20 tho under standard (as it should, having been ground) the shells mic at 10 tho each over the originals (matches the crank) maybe the mains have been ground a little eccentric. That I cant check though. So, strip it all down again, pack up in the Landy and back to the machine shop so they can figure out whats wrong.

The crank was as free as a bird, pre regrind, something much have happened during the grinding. I’ll report back when they’ve done the investigation and can shed some light on the problem….

Meanwhile, its back to the brakes, oh and order some more….

e type rope seal


We’re off again….

There’s been something of a hiatus on Lady Marilyn its been the best part of a year since I made any meaningful progress. Obi-wan Preston-Ladd asked how things were going and I had to admit they weren’t. He then proceeded to tell me of his latest Challenger adventure and my enthusiasm crawled out from the rock it had been hiding under and decided to make its presence felt.

I needed a list. So here it is.

  1. properly fit the new column (kindly donated by Anthony Terence Jones)
  2. Fit the new main dash panel
  3. buy and fit the pedal box.
  4. Rebuild the engine (this just gets one entry on the list)
  5. New brake pipes and fuel lines
  6. Make the engine fit
  7. Replace / remake the internal panels
  8. Full Re-wire
  9. Fit the screen properly.

That’s the starter for 9.

These things always start with shopping. A flurry of activity saw me locate a new Pedal box (top mounted) send the block for honeing, purchase various known bits for the engine rebuild.

The column was a five minute job, but I needed a new boss for the wheel, remember the old one with the screw in it?


I am still undecided where the wheel will end up in relation to the seat and pedals, so I went for a cheap boss in the first instance, just to have something to use as a datum.

steering wheel boss

Heres the new boss, cheap as chips and will allow me to get all the relative dims sorted.  Now, study the picture carefully, are there any other uses of this boss that spring to mind? No? Well when the paypal invoice came it, its from “Sexual Healing” Christ know swhat they were healing with that….

sexual healing

Jag owners are a strange bunch….

Back to relative normality, next I trial fitted the dash panel, I lined this up with the glove box which hasn’t been off but It left a gap between the dash top and screen. Taking the gap away left the rec-counter hitting the column bracket. Then I realised the screen wasn’t correctly installed, and needed new seals. Plus Jerry advised that this sometimes happens and a piece of seal can be added to the dash top to cover smallish gaps.

I refit later and it started to look better…


Meanwhile the the retarded world of brakes, I removed the old brake and clutch master cylinders. For reasons know only to fully paid up members of “Exit” the original twin circuit had been replaced with a single circuit system. This was unnecessarily dangerous and look shite too.

master cyl

A couple of bolts later the assembly was on the bench and I could marvel at its fully glory…

What a piece of shit.

Next came the top mounted OBP pedal box. Out of the box  and straight into a problem. There is a 25mm x 25mm box all the way around the end of the footwell. If I spaced the pedal box back 25mm the master cylinders would be poking out of the endplate and be impossible to seal, If I dropped the pedal box down 25mm to sit under the rail then the master cylinder fouled a chassis member. Bugger.

Only one thing for it, go for a floor mounted pedal box (which is available with the 25 x 25 cut out) and bang the top mounted one on Ebay. So that’s what I did. I few days later the top mounted version sold for what I paid for it and went to a chap building a 6R4 replica. The floor mounted version turned up and tits lovely. Everyone’s a winner.

The new pedal box is here and spot on. Mounting holes drilled just waiting for a 38mm hole saw.  You really cant beat a hole saw, it’ll make it worse.

Meanwhile the block was back from the machine shop, bores nicely honed and with the added advantage of having gone through their parts washer.

Its such a heavy block lifting gear was required before I could get it out of the borrowed works van.

e type block

but a little while later it was on the engine stand again.

The Rope seals are the next job…. Yes, you heard, its the…..

e type rope seal

In preparation the two rope seals are soaking in engine oil, soon their time will come….

Meanwhile a couple of minor jobs, painting the head in the correct Harvest Gold, specially mixed for me by HMG paints, and looking very dapper it is too.

e type head

The Mahle pistons have turned up, they’ll get fitted after the….

e type rope seal

More in a few days when the “you know what” gets done.

e type s1 ots


On your marks, get set, wait…..

Its been such a long time since I updated progress on Lady Marilyn you’d be forgiven for thinking I’d given up. Absolutely not the case, just taking a bit of a breather and sorting other stuff out. Poo has gone, Herman has arrived (and new toys just HAVE to be played with – it’s the Law) plus I’ve been working for a living too – and work has been manic….

So, when we left the story the venerable lump was out and mounted on its engine stand, the head was off, the studs were all loose and everything was going well…

I took the head to W. Drake in Bradford (  for pressure testing and cleaning. Just a quick job, or so I thought. As is always the way with testing, it revealed the need for more work. The head was leaking from the core plugs, the guides needed replacing, the seats could do with updating too and… and…and…. So I took the easy (but not cheap) route and told them to fully fettle it for me.

Drakes are very good but like, Ward Engineering, you couldn’t accuse them of being quick. To be fair I hadn’t been in the zone to do much during that time and no harm was done. Then 4 months later, like the second coming, the phone rang to tell me my head had finally arrived in the dispatch bay. Was I ready for it? Was I bloody hell!


E Type Jaguar head 2


E Type Jaguar head

And so the head was duly collected. Sadly Drakes don’t do the gold paint required for the head so once again I turned to the internet for guidance.

What’s the best way to walk from the kitchen to the stairs? If you follow the internet’s advice you’d leave by the backdoor, walk to Droitwich before hailing a cab to the train station heading for Seaton Sluice (real place), taking the bus to the front door and right there you’ll find the stairs.

This is how it was when I tried to track the paint down, about a million web pages later I’d arrived at HMG paints ( who do a decent approximation to Jaguars Harvest Gold (the generally accepted shade used on the later S1 E Type heads). At least they had an outlet a couple of miles from work and I could happily collect said material in my lunchtime. So that was done and another part accumulated.

Meanwhile, back to the block and time to see what’s happening down below.

I span the engine over on the stand and whipped off the sump. To be fair there were no nasties floating around in there, but a ton of sludge had accumulated. A simple degrease was all that was needed.


E Type Jaguar sump

I put the sump back on, masked the top end and cleaned up the block ready for a fresh coat of paint. Probably the wrong sequence this, but it made me feel like I’d made more progress than I actually had….


During the rebuild hiatus I tried to convince myself I was still doing meaningful work by accumulating all the bits for the rebuild, timing chains, tensioners, gaskets, seals and new head studs were waiting for the head to come back, and waiting, and waiting and so on…

Time to play catch up, uncover the block and take a peek at the bottom end and once again all looked pretty good.

E Type Jaguar  crank 1

From what I could see of the cylinders they were all pretty good.

I pulled the big ends out and they looked good. In many ways that’s the worst thing that could have happened. If they’d been worn it would have been a black and white crank grind, but they were fine.

Interestingly it appears the shells came from Gustav Graves Diamond mine in Iceland…


Next, pull the mains. Here there was wear, so the decision became easy – off to the grinders after all.

E Type Jaguar main bearing shell

So, strip off the oil pump and pipework, remove the big ends and pull the pistons before taking off the mains and lifting the crank out

E Type Jaguar crank

E Type Jaguar block


Next pull the oil pump drive and cam chain pulley

and off to the grinders it goes, along with the fly wheel which needs skimming too.

I’d bought a bore gauge to check the wear on the cylinders to decide if a re-bore was also on the cards. Neat bit of kit, checked its calibration at a friend of mines climate controlled measuring room (all very posh – but useful too) and it was bob-on.

Assemble the necessary configuration of collars and pin and we’re ready to go.


Happily the bores show very little wear


The base line measurement at the bottom of the bore was 0.05mm, maximum measured wear was 0.04mm, well within the 0.15 specification. Finally something that doesn’t need doing and isn’t anywhere close enough to “do it anyway” logic.

Now I can get into the oil ways and have everything spic and span for when the crank comes home.

Until next time, once again its….

thats all folks

Break out the Acme chemistry set..

Jaguar head studs were first conceived in the heat of a S&M session, probably. A man with bulldog clips on his nipples while receiving 40 lashes had a sudden rush of something, lets call it inspiration (for want of a better word) and decided to tap the inside of the water jacket to receive the studs. Here those studs would be free to corrode to their hearts content – thank you sir, may I have another – and some poor smuck would have to free those wasted away studs from the corrosion hell of the water jacket years later – after you with the jar of bees and scrotum seal – all in all a terribly good idea, if your mind works that way.

Back to the here and now and I had become that smuck, Jaguar in their wisdom had allowed the victim, sorry, rebuilder, to see the extent of his torture be revealing what was left of the head studs via the core plugs.

On a cold and blustery day in November I find myself going down the path of whylie Coyote with my very own chemistry project. The “why” was fairly simple. As mentioned . My studs had corroded significantly and were really narrow at the point that they went into the block. If they sheared I was in real trouble, so this was an important job.

e type core plugs

I googled to find the best penetrating oil to give me a head start, among the usual suspects of PJ1 and WD40 was a thread on a Do-it-yourself formula, acetone and ATF mixed 50:50. Some testing had been done and the alleged results gave the best performance. But its flammable and explosive…

So, here I am, standing at my bench with bottles of acetone and ATF, a measuring jug and a vague urge to check the house insurance cover. Does this come under the terrorism act or the soon to be released stupidity act 2015.

acetone and atf

My mind wandered back through the decades to my first Scout camp. I must have been age 11 or 12 at the time and it was a very exciting event. Tents were erected, wood chopped and a roaring camp fire established outside our patrol tent. The Patrol leader told me to put some water on the fire. It sounded a shame to do that after all the effort to get it going in the first place, but being the patrol junior I did as I was told and out went the fire. Noooooooo shouted the patrol leader, I meant in a billy can you wazzock.

And that is the problem with instructions, you have to hear them as they were meant to be heard. So, my instruction from a faceless individual over the medium of the internet (which as we all know is 100% reliable….) was to mix acetone and ATF in a 50:50 ratio. In for a penny in for a long-stretch-in-casualty….

Happily nothing exploded, the vapour didn’t kill me and the resultant pink fluid looks mostly inert. So I dried out the previous WD40, that I’d been applying daily for more than a week, and sprayed the new concoction onto the base of the studs.

It sat this way for a day or so before I decided it was time to tackle the actual removal.

I thought a lot about how to stand the best chance of getting them out whole. The normal option would be to lock two nuts together and apply pressure. I decided to try a different route and welded one of the head nuts to the stud so that I could use the windy gun to put some shock loading through the studs.

Jaguar 4.2 head studs

Obi-Wan Preston-Ladd had suggested using a little heat as well, so I dried out the new fluid (explosive remember) and very cautiously flashed the flame over the area. To my delight, nothing blew up….

So I added more heat

xk4.2 studs

after about 5 minutes of heating (its only a propane burner after all) I took he heat away gingerly added some of the new fluid hoping it wasn’t hot enough to go bang, and fired up the windy gun…

Jaguar 4.2 long studs

a couple of minutes of rattling and hey presto! thank the lord of the internal combustion engine, the stud broke free…. Using the same technique on the other 7 they all freed off nicely..

I haven’t taken them out yet as I want to clear all the crud from that water jackets and don’t want it falling into the threads. I will be posting pictures of them once out though, just to illustrate how bad they were…

Off with her head…..

With the lump out of the car, it was time to have a poke around. first job to split the gearbox off

e type engine 4.2

Easy enough even it there are loads of bolts to undo, all of them behaved and quick as a flash….


Next came the pressure plate and low and behold, the friction plate is knackered… It was getting changed anyhow so no great shakes, what is amazing is how well it drove in the state it was in, no judders and a smooth take off..

e type clutch

The flywheel will need dressing too when I rebuild as there is some marking on the surface, but again, no great shakes.

I bought an engine stand to make life easier which is both a good and less good thing. The stand itself is fine, but as its the heavy duty version its too wide at the front to get the crane in and mount the engine, it needed a bit of swing….

e type engine stand

I needed some longer bolts to mount the engine to the stand and I wasn’t entirely confident that they’s be ok, but they’ve turned out fine. I mounted the engine and left the crane on loose while I rocked, pushed and lent on the engine and all was good. I used 4 inch long 3/8 UNF bolts, grade 10.9 to be safe, they were fine with a few hardened washers. – but I could have gotten away with 3.5″. I figured I could add washers, but it was harder to add length – god knows I’m aware of that problem.

Once all was tight, secure and generally very happy, I added some degreaser and a light jet wash, it didn’t need much, another telltale that the engine hasn’t seen much use in all its years in the car.

xj6 engine


Now for the head studs, as hidden behind the core plugs. As mentioned previously corrosion is very much evident and they need to be changed. I cleared the crud out with the aid of a dentists pick and airline and left the soaking in WD40 whilst I get on with other jobs. This part of the project weighs heavily on my mind and I’ve sent and SOS to my friend, and resident expert, Jerry Preston-Ladd of the challenger owners club for advice. If I shag this up I could be looking at a new block…

IMG_5311 e type core plugs

Before stripping the engine I’d done compression checks and all seemed fine. but the head needs to come off anyway for general inspection and any remedial work necessary, so it was out with the crane again.

Having released the tension on the top cam chain, I undid the 4 bolts per cam sprocket and slid them along the tracks to clear the head. This is a great design feature, made the whole exercise so much easier… I also tie wrapped the cam chain to the sprockets first – not entirely sure why as its getting changed anyway, but, at the time it seemed like a good idea. Unlike many of my other “good idea at the time” decisions, this one wont cost me a house 🙂

e type engine

Next I took off all the head nuts and the 6 bolts at the front of the engine and introduced the crane again. With a little load on the head and wd 40 sprayed around each of the head studs to my surprise the head began to move…

Jaguar 4.2 head removal

I’ve heard so many horror stories of the heads being corroded onto the blocks, but mine just lifted easily requiring nothing more and a gentle rocking to make sure it lifted evenly. Before I knew it I had a head off….

jaguar 4.2 head

Happy days!

There is something very satisfying about engine rebuilds, its like surgery, bringing life back to those who were losing it. I mean, how hard can an operation be? Surgeons don’t have to worry about differential corrosion, collects or cam timing…. Tish, easy life…

Just a little time left for a quick glance at the bores and pistons, and yet again, all looks good. This appears to be a low mileage engine that’s just suffering from a lack of use, so often the problems with cherished cars…

e type pistonJaguar bore

My time with this phase had run out… and it was time to pack up for the evening. Daughter Sophy decided that I didn’t need the full 4.2 litres of jaguar engineering and, apparently, daughter power trumps horse power every time.


IMG_5350 IMG_5353

I’ll see how she likes it when I connect the propshaft…..

thats all folks


Time for a large withdrawal…

Well, the time has come for a major withdrawal, the IRS was home and snug, the front suspension all new, the wiring was like an explosion in a spaghetti factory, but can wait, lets get the engine and box out for a look see.

e type ots

First job was to put the wheels back on and drop the rear. so I could move the old girl around. I still haver to fit the handbrake and torque up the hub nuts, but for now, just the wheels will do.


I rolled her back to give me some room for the engine hoist and had to put the front wheels on bricks so the hoist would get under the wishbones, but all fairly straightforward stuff. Next I undid the gearbox mount (which is more complex than it needs to be and something I’ll take a look at before it goes back in). Then I secured the engine on two strops, using a load leveler to allow me to adjust the angle, undid the front mounts, ancillary wiring, hydraulic clutch and took the exhaust manifolds off. Surprisingly all this went well and nothing broke or was sized. Happy days. Just the gear lever to take off, two ways of doing this, I chose the longitudinal bolt rather then the transverse, but its probably as broad as it is long…

I removed the inner panels on top of the gearbox and at the front of the scuttle to give me more space and then…

I started the lift…

e type engine removalIMG_5297

It took some rocking of the engine to release the front mounts, both of which broke. I was replacing them anyway, so no harm done. Bit by bit I lifted, constantly checking for clearance and making sure I hadn’t left anything connected.

e type engine out

all looked good, the front brake pipes are perilously close to the front pulley so I always had an eye on that too…

e type ots engine removal

inching it out, all looked good…

Jaguar e type engine removal

And then she was free 🙂 Its a heavy old combo the engine and box (complete with over drive) and needs a bit of work to man handle to the resting place, but not too bad.

Once on the deck, the first job was to look behind the core plugs. A few of mine had been weeping but I also know they are a sludge trap, time to see if I’d caught anything…

e type core plug

Oh yes, there was enough muck in there to to fill a sink hole. Its to be expected after many decades of corrosion and my car had been little used, allowing it to react over long periods. I pulled out all the core plugs and blew out the debris with an air line and a dentists pick to release the stubborn bits.

the head studs pass all the way to the base of the block and that’s what you can see through the hole. I’ve heard of studs so corroded they’ve nearly rusted through. Luckily mine aren’t bad at all…

Once I’d cleared the sludge I filled each recess with WD 40 as I’ll be changing the head studs as part of the engine rebuild and the penetrating oil can have lots of time to do its stuff.

I took off the in;et manifold and starter to help with access as both also are in line for a rebuild.

IMG_5310 IMG_5309

Next on the list is an engine stand so I can work at a reasonable height. More progress as it happens…


time to slip it in….

The work on the IRS was largely finished, an emergency delivery from John Gordon Jag spares (jagman0_6 on ebay) allowed me to replace the outer fulcrum I wasn’t happy with – really quick service from those guys – and it was pretty much job done.

Now, the jag diff is a heavy piece of kit by its self, bolt the rest of the IRS on and it weighs more than Buster Gonad’s wheel barrow.. I had to use the engine lift to get the assembly from the trestle’s onto the trolley jackJag IRS

to protect the newly painted components, I sat the IRS on a block of wood, but as I tried to maneuver the unit under the car the wood kept slipping… to get over this I screwed the irs cage to the wood at the back ( but loose enough to get a cutting disc in when the unit was in the car, and then used a G clamp at the front.

e type suspensionE type IRS

It was an easy job to get the unit back in, just raise it slowly and make sure the bushes line up properly.

Jag etype IRS Picture 017

Next came the trailing arms, because the wishbone is “down” the arms don’t line up with mounting brackets. So get over this I just jacked the wishbone up until it started to lift the car, then used a ratchet strap to get the last bit of movement. The bushes slipped straight in and it was job done.

e type rear hub

Just a few tidying jobs left on the rear and I can think about lifting the engine and box out.

One of the problems with tinkering with cars is that you can attract a lot of “can you take a look at this for me?” type requests. One such job came in the shape of a neighbours “dirt bike” that he’d acquired to go over the fields with his son, who has a quad. I don’t mind helping neighbours out and its been a while since I tinkered with old two strokes, so it was no hardship.

It didn’t run when he got it and would I take a look at it for him. Hmmmm wiring was none existent and the magneto morse taper was a bit second hand…

Picture 003 susuki ts 125

Picture 001

The ignition systems on old TS’s are a piece of cake. A magneto (not alternator – so no rectifier) with the points between the magneto and earth leaves just one wire to the coil. However the points were shagged and the rust on the taper would stop the flywheel from sitting right.

Picture 005 Picture 006

A quick clean, change the points and gap them correctly – its actually a case of timing them, if they open at the right place the gap takes care of itself. I ran a new earth from the engine case to the coil, fitted a new plug,  popped some new petrol into the float bowl and we were away.  Still needs a bit of work as it runs rough, but I can sort that..

The joys of tinkering!

The woodruff key sheared because I hadn’t tightened the flywheel fully – I didn’t have a puller if I needed to get it off again, but now I know its nearly there have ordered a new key (all of 89p) and I can finish this little job and clear the garage again.


A Tale of two clippies…

Been an odd week really. Went for a run in the Lotus with my youngest daughter (for her birthday) on Friday, I’m fond of telling people how reliable the Lotus is and that is never any bother. Hmmm it seems that Poo, for that is her name, decided it was time to teach me a lesson in speaking too soon…

The run was good fun, off to Whitby for fish and Chips, roof down, light rain turning heavy..

lotus elise s1

Then down the coast road to Scarborough. Some way along We caught up to a low loader hauling an Articulated Dump Truck ( I used to design those), it struggled on a hill and I had to nip into first gear, except first gear had decided to take a holiday… First gear, being the sociable type, decided to take 3rd and 5th for a bit of company, leaving me with fourth and a possible second – if I dare risk it… Truth be told I didn’t risk it and came home the 70 or so miles in fourth…

A great day was had not spoilt in the least my the misbehaving gearbox, but as Saturday dawned I decided it was time to take a look and see what the problem was…


As the undertray had to come off I got a gallon of Mobil 1 and a new filter as Poo was due her annual change anyway. It didn’t take long to find the problem, on of the gear selection cables had lost its retaining clip. Poo was smiling on me though as the offending clip was still lying on the inside of the undertray. Piece of cake to slide it back on and I took the opportunity of adding a couple of cable ties to stop it happening again.


I also had a quick bleed of the clutch as it felt a little spongy and all back together.

Sunday came round and I decided to press on with Lady Marilyn’s IRS  It was just a case of carrying off where I left off last time, all went swimmingly really, if fact nothing much to report.

The remote bleed kit from Fossway Performance was already here – and what a well engineered bit of kit it is too. Simple to install and just one hole to drill in the cage. There are some well thought out elements to this kit, I particularly like the twin mounting brackets, one of which locks the mounting bosses so its a one spanner tighten.

E Type IRS

Then just a few tidy up jobs, I couldn’t finish as my last SC parts order is yet to land. I think they are slow on purpose so you pay for premium shipping, but I’ll chase them up tomorrow and see what the story is.


I might even get the lump back in the car next weekend…

e type s1 ots

Spanners out again…

it seems all the stars aligned and a day in the garage beckoned.

Over the past few weeks its been a case of a bit here and a little there. One by one the IRS components have neared completion in their own right ant it was time to see if the whole would be greater than the sum of the parts.

With Jerry’s trusty rebuild guide to hand, I set forth. I haven’t lockwired anything in years, so after torquing the output shaft bolts and the inner pivot brackets (correctly shimmed) its was out with the lock wire and a tiny pair of mole grips in place of the proper pliers. I only managed to stab myself a handful of times and once I’d wiped the blood away know one will notice.

I found it easier to do everything with the diff in the cage as its keeps everything located properly.


Next came the caliper assemblies. I had to remove the adjuster screw on the handbrake calipers before they’d go over the disc with the diff in the cage, but that’s an easy enough job. key part here was to center the referbed calipers on the new discs. It took two shims to reach the optimum position…


I bought new shims as those that came off had some surface corrosion and to my mind if they are to set the correct distance, then they need to be free of surface blemishes and be of known thickness. heres how the old ones looked…

jag camber shims

next it was time to torque the caliper mounting bolts – where are very carefully positioned such that you don’t have a chance in hell of getting a socket anywhere near them. So, I torqued up a bolt elsewhere with a torque wrench, and then felt the resistance using a long handled ring spanner. I then translated this to the caliper bolts. this was followed with yet more lockwire – I could have done with some child labor at this point (my hands are too big for this job) but I persevered and eventually the job was done.


Next came the wishbones and the unbridled joy that is lining up the seals and thrust washers for the inner pivot. I found the best way to do this was to support the wishbone on a brick, use the lower damper shaft to locate one side (this has a useful taper on the end and is happily the same diameter as the pivot shaft) and then wrestle the otherside throught he pivot shaft. The its a case of drifting the pivot shaft (gently) through to the second bearing which displaces the damper mounting shaft as it gets home.

I did struggle a little with the alignment of the final boss on the cage and had to slacken the 4 diff mounting bolts and use a bit of wood to help me.


But soon enough the job was done. same again on the other side and hey-presto.



I added the second pair of sims to the drive side of the disc (4 shims per side in total) and torqued the drive shaft nuts (no washers here) and couldn’t resist dropping the hub and dampers on to see what its going to look like when finished, I also checked I’d got the right hub on the right side by checking the spinner worked in the correct direction.


So that’s where we are.

I’ve ordered a remote bleed kit from Fossway performance (, which should be here by the weekend and I should be able to crack on to completion.

Before I sign off, id like to say hello to the followers in America, Brazil, Holland, Portugal, France, Australia, South Africa, Bermuda and Poland.

Isn’t it amazing how the internet makes access borderless? Thank you to everyone who reads this – I hope  at least some of you enjoy!