Break out the Acme chemistry set..

Jaguar head studs were first conceived in the heat of a S&M session, probably. A man with bulldog clips on his nipples while receiving 40 lashes had a sudden rush of something, lets call it inspiration (for want of a better word) and decided to tap the inside of the water jacket to receive the studs. Here those studs would be free to corrode to their hearts content – thank you sir, may I have another – and some poor smuck would have to free those wasted away studs from the corrosion hell of the water jacket years later – after you with the jar of bees and scrotum seal – all in all a terribly good idea, if your mind works that way.

Back to the here and now and I had become that smuck, Jaguar in their wisdom had allowed the victim, sorry, rebuilder, to see the extent of his torture be revealing what was left of the head studs via the core plugs.

On a cold and blustery day in November I find myself going down the path of whylie Coyote with my very own chemistry project. The “why” was fairly simple. As mentioned . My studs had corroded significantly and were really narrow at the point that they went into the block. If they sheared I was in real trouble, so this was an important job.

e type core plugs

I googled to find the best penetrating oil to give me a head start, among the usual suspects of PJ1 and WD40 was a thread on a Do-it-yourself formula, acetone and ATF mixed 50:50. Some testing had been done and the alleged results gave the best performance. But its flammable and explosive…

So, here I am, standing at my bench with bottles of acetone and ATF, a measuring jug and a vague urge to check the house insurance cover. Does this come under the terrorism act or the soon to be released stupidity act 2015.

acetone and atf

My mind wandered back through the decades to my first Scout camp. I must have been age 11 or 12 at the time and it was a very exciting event. Tents were erected, wood chopped and a roaring camp fire established outside our patrol tent. The Patrol leader told me to put some water on the fire. It sounded a shame to do that after all the effort to get it going in the first place, but being the patrol junior I did as I was told and out went the fire. Noooooooo shouted the patrol leader, I meant in a billy can you wazzock.

And that is the problem with instructions, you have to hear them as they were meant to be heard. So, my instruction from a faceless individual over the medium of the internet (which as we all know is 100% reliable….) was to mix acetone and ATF in a 50:50 ratio. In for a penny in for a long-stretch-in-casualty….

Happily nothing exploded, the vapour didn’t kill me and the resultant pink fluid looks mostly inert. So I dried out the previous WD40, that I’d been applying daily for more than a week, and sprayed the new concoction onto the base of the studs.

It sat this way for a day or so before I decided it was time to tackle the actual removal.

I thought a lot about how to stand the best chance of getting them out whole. The normal option would be to lock two nuts together and apply pressure. I decided to try a different route and welded one of the head nuts to the stud so that I could use the windy gun to put some shock loading through the studs.

Jaguar 4.2 head studs

Obi-Wan Preston-Ladd had suggested using a little heat as well, so I dried out the new fluid (explosive remember) and very cautiously flashed the flame over the area. To my delight, nothing blew up….

So I added more heat

xk4.2 studs

after about 5 minutes of heating (its only a propane burner after all) I took he heat away gingerly added some of the new fluid hoping it wasn’t hot enough to go bang, and fired up the windy gun…

Jaguar 4.2 long studs

a couple of minutes of rattling and hey presto! thank the lord of the internal combustion engine, the stud broke free…. Using the same technique on the other 7 they all freed off nicely..

I haven’t taken them out yet as I want to clear all the crud from that water jackets and don’t want it falling into the threads. I will be posting pictures of them once out though, just to illustrate how bad they were…

Off with her head…..

With the lump out of the car, it was time to have a poke around. first job to split the gearbox off

e type engine 4.2

Easy enough even it there are loads of bolts to undo, all of them behaved and quick as a flash….


Next came the pressure plate and low and behold, the friction plate is knackered… It was getting changed anyhow so no great shakes, what is amazing is how well it drove in the state it was in, no judders and a smooth take off..

e type clutch

The flywheel will need dressing too when I rebuild as there is some marking on the surface, but again, no great shakes.

I bought an engine stand to make life easier which is both a good and less good thing. The stand itself is fine, but as its the heavy duty version its too wide at the front to get the crane in and mount the engine, it needed a bit of swing….

e type engine stand

I needed some longer bolts to mount the engine to the stand and I wasn’t entirely confident that they’s be ok, but they’ve turned out fine. I mounted the engine and left the crane on loose while I rocked, pushed and lent on the engine and all was good. I used 4 inch long 3/8 UNF bolts, grade 10.9 to be safe, they were fine with a few hardened washers. – but I could have gotten away with 3.5″. I figured I could add washers, but it was harder to add length – god knows I’m aware of that problem.

Once all was tight, secure and generally very happy, I added some degreaser and a light jet wash, it didn’t need much, another telltale that the engine hasn’t seen much use in all its years in the car.

xj6 engine


Now for the head studs, as hidden behind the core plugs. As mentioned previously corrosion is very much evident and they need to be changed. I cleared the crud out with the aid of a dentists pick and airline and left the soaking in WD40 whilst I get on with other jobs. This part of the project weighs heavily on my mind and I’ve sent and SOS to my friend, and resident expert, Jerry Preston-Ladd of the challenger owners club for advice. If I shag this up I could be looking at a new block…

IMG_5311 e type core plugs

Before stripping the engine I’d done compression checks and all seemed fine. but the head needs to come off anyway for general inspection and any remedial work necessary, so it was out with the crane again.

Having released the tension on the top cam chain, I undid the 4 bolts per cam sprocket and slid them along the tracks to clear the head. This is a great design feature, made the whole exercise so much easier… I also tie wrapped the cam chain to the sprockets first – not entirely sure why as its getting changed anyway, but, at the time it seemed like a good idea. Unlike many of my other “good idea at the time” decisions, this one wont cost me a house 🙂

e type engine

Next I took off all the head nuts and the 6 bolts at the front of the engine and introduced the crane again. With a little load on the head and wd 40 sprayed around each of the head studs to my surprise the head began to move…

Jaguar 4.2 head removal

I’ve heard so many horror stories of the heads being corroded onto the blocks, but mine just lifted easily requiring nothing more and a gentle rocking to make sure it lifted evenly. Before I knew it I had a head off….

jaguar 4.2 head

Happy days!

There is something very satisfying about engine rebuilds, its like surgery, bringing life back to those who were losing it. I mean, how hard can an operation be? Surgeons don’t have to worry about differential corrosion, collects or cam timing…. Tish, easy life…

Just a little time left for a quick glance at the bores and pistons, and yet again, all looks good. This appears to be a low mileage engine that’s just suffering from a lack of use, so often the problems with cherished cars…

e type pistonJaguar bore

My time with this phase had run out… and it was time to pack up for the evening. Daughter Sophy decided that I didn’t need the full 4.2 litres of jaguar engineering and, apparently, daughter power trumps horse power every time.


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I’ll see how she likes it when I connect the propshaft…..

thats all folks


Time for a large withdrawal…

Well, the time has come for a major withdrawal, the IRS was home and snug, the front suspension all new, the wiring was like an explosion in a spaghetti factory, but can wait, lets get the engine and box out for a look see.

e type ots

First job was to put the wheels back on and drop the rear. so I could move the old girl around. I still haver to fit the handbrake and torque up the hub nuts, but for now, just the wheels will do.


I rolled her back to give me some room for the engine hoist and had to put the front wheels on bricks so the hoist would get under the wishbones, but all fairly straightforward stuff. Next I undid the gearbox mount (which is more complex than it needs to be and something I’ll take a look at before it goes back in). Then I secured the engine on two strops, using a load leveler to allow me to adjust the angle, undid the front mounts, ancillary wiring, hydraulic clutch and took the exhaust manifolds off. Surprisingly all this went well and nothing broke or was sized. Happy days. Just the gear lever to take off, two ways of doing this, I chose the longitudinal bolt rather then the transverse, but its probably as broad as it is long…

I removed the inner panels on top of the gearbox and at the front of the scuttle to give me more space and then…

I started the lift…

e type engine removalIMG_5297

It took some rocking of the engine to release the front mounts, both of which broke. I was replacing them anyway, so no harm done. Bit by bit I lifted, constantly checking for clearance and making sure I hadn’t left anything connected.

e type engine out

all looked good, the front brake pipes are perilously close to the front pulley so I always had an eye on that too…

e type ots engine removal

inching it out, all looked good…

Jaguar e type engine removal

And then she was free 🙂 Its a heavy old combo the engine and box (complete with over drive) and needs a bit of work to man handle to the resting place, but not too bad.

Once on the deck, the first job was to look behind the core plugs. A few of mine had been weeping but I also know they are a sludge trap, time to see if I’d caught anything…

e type core plug

Oh yes, there was enough muck in there to to fill a sink hole. Its to be expected after many decades of corrosion and my car had been little used, allowing it to react over long periods. I pulled out all the core plugs and blew out the debris with an air line and a dentists pick to release the stubborn bits.

the head studs pass all the way to the base of the block and that’s what you can see through the hole. I’ve heard of studs so corroded they’ve nearly rusted through. Luckily mine aren’t bad at all…

Once I’d cleared the sludge I filled each recess with WD 40 as I’ll be changing the head studs as part of the engine rebuild and the penetrating oil can have lots of time to do its stuff.

I took off the in;et manifold and starter to help with access as both also are in line for a rebuild.

IMG_5310 IMG_5309

Next on the list is an engine stand so I can work at a reasonable height. More progress as it happens…


Smelly’s story

Smelly is a KDX 220, one of a gang of three, Itchy (250 Suzuki), Hairy (KTM300) and Smelly. Smelly came around, as these things often do, from a discussion over a few beers. It was decided that we should all get enduro bikes and start doing a spot of green laneing.

Ebay is your friend at times like these, some clicking later and we realised that Wales was the land of plenty when looking at enduro bikes, so we made a list of possibles, borrowed a van and then at some ungodly hour on a Sunday morning set off for the land of Leeks, thistles and nervous sheep.


Many hours later we had two of the three bikes we needed


Smelly seemed fine, but when I got her in the mud she just lacked a bit of punch at high revs… Time to investigate. I pulled out the engine to make it easier – top tip if your thinking of doing this, dont! The rear engine mount is also the pivot shaft for the swinging arm. Once you take the shaft out the monoshock linkage trys to kill you… still once it was done the problem became clear..

Kdx220 power valve kdx power valve drive


The little bit floating in the crank cases isnt supposed to be there. It is supposed to be fastened to the end of the powervalve actuator shaft. As the engine was out anyway, it may as well all come to bits for a poke around…


crimson tide elf

all parts de-coked, actuator repaired, all fairly straight forward stuff…

Now, green laneing is all about lots of fairly gentle stuff and the occasional really tricky bit. Being novices we headed to Deadmans hill, a well known green lane.


The first bit was easy enough, if a bit foggy. It did get tougher at the hill itself, the ground was heavily rutted by the 4WD’s and ts steeper than the photos let on..


but we made it



We’ve done a few more since, but more often than not we ride up the sharrow, arse about there for a couple of hours and head home.

That said, this winter we’re planning on doing more proper green lanes… More to follow 🙂

Thats all folks

time to slip it in….

The work on the IRS was largely finished, an emergency delivery from John Gordon Jag spares (jagman0_6 on ebay) allowed me to replace the outer fulcrum I wasn’t happy with – really quick service from those guys – and it was pretty much job done.

Now, the jag diff is a heavy piece of kit by its self, bolt the rest of the IRS on and it weighs more than Buster Gonad’s wheel barrow.. I had to use the engine lift to get the assembly from the trestle’s onto the trolley jackJag IRS

to protect the newly painted components, I sat the IRS on a block of wood, but as I tried to maneuver the unit under the car the wood kept slipping… to get over this I screwed the irs cage to the wood at the back ( but loose enough to get a cutting disc in when the unit was in the car, and then used a G clamp at the front.

e type suspensionE type IRS

It was an easy job to get the unit back in, just raise it slowly and make sure the bushes line up properly.

Jag etype IRS Picture 017

Next came the trailing arms, because the wishbone is “down” the arms don’t line up with mounting brackets. So get over this I just jacked the wishbone up until it started to lift the car, then used a ratchet strap to get the last bit of movement. The bushes slipped straight in and it was job done.

e type rear hub

Just a few tidying jobs left on the rear and I can think about lifting the engine and box out.

One of the problems with tinkering with cars is that you can attract a lot of “can you take a look at this for me?” type requests. One such job came in the shape of a neighbours “dirt bike” that he’d acquired to go over the fields with his son, who has a quad. I don’t mind helping neighbours out and its been a while since I tinkered with old two strokes, so it was no hardship.

It didn’t run when he got it and would I take a look at it for him. Hmmmm wiring was none existent and the magneto morse taper was a bit second hand…

Picture 003 susuki ts 125

Picture 001

The ignition systems on old TS’s are a piece of cake. A magneto (not alternator – so no rectifier) with the points between the magneto and earth leaves just one wire to the coil. However the points were shagged and the rust on the taper would stop the flywheel from sitting right.

Picture 005 Picture 006

A quick clean, change the points and gap them correctly – its actually a case of timing them, if they open at the right place the gap takes care of itself. I ran a new earth from the engine case to the coil, fitted a new plug,  popped some new petrol into the float bowl and we were away.  Still needs a bit of work as it runs rough, but I can sort that..

The joys of tinkering!

The woodruff key sheared because I hadn’t tightened the flywheel fully – I didn’t have a puller if I needed to get it off again, but now I know its nearly there have ordered a new key (all of 89p) and I can finish this little job and clear the garage again.


The life of Poo

Poo came about because of a trip to the Nurburgring in 2009, it was to be my daughters first trip to this hallowed place. I had intended to do the trip in the Westfield as I had done previously, the Westfield though is basic in the extreme with no weather protection at all. My friend Felix was coming too, in hios Elise.

As with all things, planning something is a piece of cake but as time rolled onward I had second thoughts about the Westfield. Finally the second thoughts became a decision, I needed a more practical car for the young one. Only problem was I’d left it a bit late, were were booked on a ferry in a little over two weeks time…

I’d always liked the Elise, my friend Felix already had one and I decided that’s what I needed, but quickly. Time to hit the classifieds…

We managed to find the right car, beautiful she was (and is) too and bought her on the spot. I’ve never looked back….

Back to the trip, loaded up with stuff (well as much as you can get in a couple of Elises (including helmets for all) and off for the overnight ferry to Zeebrugge


DSCN2503elise s1



Poo has been a model of reliability ever since, passed every MOT, never broken down and still has the same head gasket as she did when I bought her ( a known K series issue). I’ve changed a water pump and a thermostat over the 6 years (to date) I’ve had her, had the front end resprayed to take away the stone chips.

In 2013 Sophy and I did a whirlwind European road trip covering 2000 miles, taking in 10 countries, in 5 days. We did route Napoleon, the Monaco Grand Prix circuit, Italian cost road, Swiss mountain passes,  the Black Forrest run, Nurburgring (again) Holland and home via a few of the smaller countries (like Luxembourg and Lichtenstein). Once again poo was flawless and was running better than ever when we made it back to Blighty.

road trip

This was the perfect road trip, lots of fast driving, glorious weather and the best company, Sophy and I are taking about doing Norway, the long way round, next time….


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We’ve spoken of selling Poo now Lady Marilyn is here, but she’s just a part of the family – there’s no real need to sell her so she keeps her place in the fleet…



A Tale of two Clippies


Been an odd week really. Went for a run in the Lotus with my youngest daughter (for her birthday) on Friday, I’m fond of telling people how reliable the Lotus is and that is never any bother. Hmmm it seems that Poo, for that is her name, decided it was time to teach me a lesson in speaking too soon…

The run was good fun, off to Whitby for fish and Chips, roof down, light rain turning heavy..

lotus elise s1

Then down the coast road to Scarborough. Some way along We caught up to a low loader hauling an Articulated Dump Truck ( I used to design those), it struggled on a hill and I had to nip into first gear, except first gear had decided to take a holiday… First gear, being the sociable type, decided to take 3rd and 5th for a bit of company, leaving me with fourth and a possible second – if I dare risk it… Truth be told I didn’t risk it and came home the 70 or so miles in fourth…

A great day was had not spoilt in the least my the misbehaving gearbox, but as Saturday dawned I decided it was time to take a look and see what the problem was…


As the undertray had to come off I got a gallon of Mobil 1 and a new filter as Poo was due her annual change anyway. It didn’t take long to find the problem, on of the gear selection cables had lost its retaining clip. Poo was smiling on me though as the offending clip was still lying on the inside of the undertray. Piece of cake to slide it back on and I took the opportunity of adding a couple of cable ties to stop it happening again.


I also had a quick bleed of the clutch as it felt a little spongy and all back together.

e type s1 ots

A Tale of two clippies…

Been an odd week really. Went for a run in the Lotus with my youngest daughter (for her birthday) on Friday, I’m fond of telling people how reliable the Lotus is and that is never any bother. Hmmm it seems that Poo, for that is her name, decided it was time to teach me a lesson in speaking too soon…

The run was good fun, off to Whitby for fish and Chips, roof down, light rain turning heavy..

lotus elise s1

Then down the coast road to Scarborough. Some way along We caught up to a low loader hauling an Articulated Dump Truck ( I used to design those), it struggled on a hill and I had to nip into first gear, except first gear had decided to take a holiday… First gear, being the sociable type, decided to take 3rd and 5th for a bit of company, leaving me with fourth and a possible second – if I dare risk it… Truth be told I didn’t risk it and came home the 70 or so miles in fourth…

A great day was had not spoilt in the least my the misbehaving gearbox, but as Saturday dawned I decided it was time to take a look and see what the problem was…


As the undertray had to come off I got a gallon of Mobil 1 and a new filter as Poo was due her annual change anyway. It didn’t take long to find the problem, on of the gear selection cables had lost its retaining clip. Poo was smiling on me though as the offending clip was still lying on the inside of the undertray. Piece of cake to slide it back on and I took the opportunity of adding a couple of cable ties to stop it happening again.


I also had a quick bleed of the clutch as it felt a little spongy and all back together.

Sunday came round and I decided to press on with Lady Marilyn’s IRS  It was just a case of carrying off where I left off last time, all went swimmingly really, if fact nothing much to report.

The remote bleed kit from Fossway Performance was already here – and what a well engineered bit of kit it is too. Simple to install and just one hole to drill in the cage. There are some well thought out elements to this kit, I particularly like the twin mounting brackets, one of which locks the mounting bosses so its a one spanner tighten.

E Type IRS

Then just a few tidy up jobs, I couldn’t finish as my last SC parts order is yet to land. I think they are slow on purpose so you pay for premium shipping, but I’ll chase them up tomorrow and see what the story is.


I might even get the lump back in the car next weekend…

e type s1 ots

Bye bye Amy

Amy, for that is her name, is a 1975 Triumph Trident, one of the last of the line of British superbikes of the classic era. The trident was almost good enough to compete with the early Jap 4 cylinder machines, especially as it was develioped in the early 60’s and could have beaten them to market.

Amy is a T160V, built in 1975 along with the last of her kind but she wasn’t


sold until 1977 (the Trident has already lost the war with the CB750, Z1 et al)

I’d always loved the style of the Trident, but only the T160, The T150 did nothing for me at all…. So a couple of years ago, and before the E type came on the scene, I went trident hunting.

There are lots of suspicious bikes out there. Tridents are worth quite a bit of money there days so theres some jiggery pokery goes on with frames and engines, also some frames sell for silly money and I suspect these fuel the theft of bikers to be cloned. Amy was a clean as a whistle though. The chap I bought her from had spend 10 years restoring her to former glory and has the 1981 sales invoice from the sale to her second owner from the dealer.

Amy isn’t a sports bike but she is a lovely tourer in grand style and took me and my daughter Chloe on many decent rides into ther Yorkshire dales and beautiful coast lines. Never missing a beat on all the miles we rode….

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Time is so precious though and with the advent of the E Type asll my spare time had been going there and poor Amy just didn’t get ridden anymore.

I needed to find her a home. Here be there dragons…

Finding an honest buyer, who turns up, does what they say, keeps their promises – rarer than hens teeth. I’ve had idiots, dreamers and insulters of all shapes and sizes. Dealers who are all over you one minute and then vanish into thin air and don’t answer emails the next – on that vein steer clear of “Classic Superbikes” I wont trust them again. His website warns that its “Not available to unreliable buyers & sellers” hmm he’d better steer clear of himself then!

Anyway, all turned out well in the end as a really nice chap came to look at Amy, made a fair offer, some light hearted negotiation later he had bought a lovely Trident, for a good price. I had found Amy a good home at a proce I was comfortable with. Every ones a winner!

Heres a couple more pictures…


T160V Tridenttriumph TridentTriumph Trident T160t160 trident



trident trident T150Bronco & TridentIMG_4587

Spanners out again…

it seems all the stars aligned and a day in the garage beckoned.

Over the past few weeks its been a case of a bit here and a little there. One by one the IRS components have neared completion in their own right ant it was time to see if the whole would be greater than the sum of the parts.

With Jerry’s trusty rebuild guide to hand, I set forth. I haven’t lockwired anything in years, so after torquing the output shaft bolts and the inner pivot brackets (correctly shimmed) its was out with the lock wire and a tiny pair of mole grips in place of the proper pliers. I only managed to stab myself a handful of times and once I’d wiped the blood away know one will notice.

I found it easier to do everything with the diff in the cage as its keeps everything located properly.


Next came the caliper assemblies. I had to remove the adjuster screw on the handbrake calipers before they’d go over the disc with the diff in the cage, but that’s an easy enough job. key part here was to center the referbed calipers on the new discs. It took two shims to reach the optimum position…


I bought new shims as those that came off had some surface corrosion and to my mind if they are to set the correct distance, then they need to be free of surface blemishes and be of known thickness. heres how the old ones looked…

jag camber shims

next it was time to torque the caliper mounting bolts – where are very carefully positioned such that you don’t have a chance in hell of getting a socket anywhere near them. So, I torqued up a bolt elsewhere with a torque wrench, and then felt the resistance using a long handled ring spanner. I then translated this to the caliper bolts. this was followed with yet more lockwire – I could have done with some child labor at this point (my hands are too big for this job) but I persevered and eventually the job was done.


Next came the wishbones and the unbridled joy that is lining up the seals and thrust washers for the inner pivot. I found the best way to do this was to support the wishbone on a brick, use the lower damper shaft to locate one side (this has a useful taper on the end and is happily the same diameter as the pivot shaft) and then wrestle the otherside throught he pivot shaft. The its a case of drifting the pivot shaft (gently) through to the second bearing which displaces the damper mounting shaft as it gets home.

I did struggle a little with the alignment of the final boss on the cage and had to slacken the 4 diff mounting bolts and use a bit of wood to help me.


But soon enough the job was done. same again on the other side and hey-presto.



I added the second pair of sims to the drive side of the disc (4 shims per side in total) and torqued the drive shaft nuts (no washers here) and couldn’t resist dropping the hub and dampers on to see what its going to look like when finished, I also checked I’d got the right hub on the right side by checking the spinner worked in the correct direction.


So that’s where we are.

I’ve ordered a remote bleed kit from Fossway performance (, which should be here by the weekend and I should be able to crack on to completion.

Before I sign off, id like to say hello to the followers in America, Brazil, Holland, Portugal, France, Australia, South Africa, Bermuda and Poland.

Isn’t it amazing how the internet makes access borderless? Thank you to everyone who reads this – I hope  at least some of you enjoy!


A comedy of errors….

One of the things I’m learning about rebuilding a classic car is how and where to get the bits I need. Like all things there’s a pay-off depending on the driving forces at the time.

SC parts are a staple supplier, they carry most things and have a great delivery system. The down side is they cost a bit more than others. British Parts are generally cheaper, but have a much smaller range and I’ve had issues with missing bits which they wont replace because I didn’t advise them with in 3 nano-seconds of receiving the box (just a tad of exaggeration there). Ebay is generally low cost but a bit of a lottery as to what you get – although many of the main suppliers sell stuff on Ebay that works out cheaper than there own on line shop. Something to look out for.

I recently found The Hutson Motor group in Bradford, they were falling over themselves to be helpful, had a massive range of parts available and took the time to show me round their very impressive facility when I popped in to collect a dash panel.

Then there’s Ward Engineering, I considered rebuilding the hubs myself, but I lack the measuring equipment necessary and there are some turned parts needed as part of the assembly process and I was a little conscious of messing it up. So I went to Ward as they describe themselves as the best… I sent my hubs and calipers off for a rebuild on 24th April on an advised 2-3 week lead time. They finally turned up on 8th July 11 weeks later. Not only were they late, they were sent to the wrong address and when I finally retrieved them a couple of parts were missing, one being the locking wire. None of this detracts from the quality of their work, which looks excellent, just be careful if the job is time critical.

So the forced hiatus that I’ve had on the suspension rebuild is over – at least when I’ve sourced the missing bits from Ward – and I can get the old girl back onto 4 wheels again.

I started with the shimming of the diff mounting brackets. I’d already tried to use a feeler gauge, but theres nothing like doing it properly, with real parts, so I ordered a bunch more than I thought I needed.


So, process, as described in Jerry Preston-Ladds article. I pushed the shaft through the cage mounting and let the thread engage with the mounting bracket hole. As the shaft is a bigger diameter you can see how the alignment is between the shaft and the hole.  Add a shim, do it again. One happy with that one I pushed the shaft all the way through to the second cage mount and used the alignment method the determine the shims needed there. Do it for both sides.

Its not a 5 minute job, but its worth doing right.

The absence of locking wire meant I couldn’t do a whole lot more on the IRS, so I went about assembling the brakes.



heres one calliper just resting on the new disk. What I actually needed to do was assemble the handbrake calipers to the main callipers.

Lots of trial building going on to make sure I had all the bits aligned right – you cant be too careful and a couple of trial fits to make sure the finished caliper would go back properly


The its a case of lubricating everything with wheel bearing grease (not copper clip – which cant handle the high temperatures) and tightening the new pins and securing with the new locking tabs, adding the brake pipes



Meanwhile I’ve been rebuilding the dashboard to get that into a tip top condition, the Rev counter and speedo refurb were covered last time, heres what else has been going on with the dash area.

the Hutsons replacement dash looks the business with the referbed parts and new indicator unit.


e type dash 2IMG_4892

I’m modifying the choke lever to work on a micro switch and then I think I’m done 🙂

Once the locking wire is here, I can continue with the IRS build, but before I go, id like to talk about the bolts. Each and every bolt taken off has been individually cleaned on the wire wheel, pickled and then oil coated. It takes a bit of time but it means I don’t introduce thread contamination and it looks good…


right, till next time in the work of skinned knuckles, I bid you farewell