Whats missing from this picture? well, the rest of the engine, obviously, but specifically I should have added the cam speckets at this point, more of this later… The other thing I didnt do is check that the upper chain tensioner moved smoothly. I didnt and, once assembled, it didn’t.
So back off it came and sure enough the bugger wouldn’t budge.
Time for some light persuasion… With the aid of a deep socket I tapped the tensioner free
It didn’t take much and there wasn’t any real pick up, it was just held in with crud
Once cleaned up it was all re-assembled and then it was time to add the timing cover, which was easy enough. I borrowed Jerry’s technique of seating the crank oil seal in the timing cover and sliding it along the crank. Worked well and didn’t damage the seal.
The sump came next and, again, all very straight forward.
Now to add the new head bolts. I unpacked the parts sent by David Manners many moons ago. I’d gone for the 4 long studs pack as I like the look of the lifting lugs. I would use them to actually lift the lump, but they look nice….
Here’s the set unpacked…
I have three long studs to match the 4 mounting holes. Something has gone awry…
So, armed with my best argumentative voice I called David Manners to tell them the parts they supplied… cough… two years ago were, in fact, wrong.
Called the help line, gave them my postcode, waited…
Sorry sir cant find the order, oh, it wasn’t 2015 was it?
Well, yes, as a matter of fact it was. Can’t rush an engine build….
No problem, what do you need?
Well, just another long stud…
No problem, I’ll get it in the post tonight.
Next day it turned up, express courier, FOC. Now thats what I cann customer service, if you need parts for your Jag, go there first. Top company….
So, equipped with the new studs, re-assembly can continue….
Oh, there’s a new water pump in there too, that came to DMG as well, as did the new core plugs.
Now time to drop the head on. Freshly painted in the correct Harvest Gold, specially mixed by HMG paints, and add the new head nuts and lifting lugs.
This picture shows the cam sprockets fitted. This wasn’t actually as easy as you might think. Early on in this post I advised that I’d forgotten to fit these before the head. I found out to my cost that there’s no way they’ll fit with the cams in place, to time to pull them out again. Its not actually the worst idea, the head was built up over a year ago, so pulling the cams allowed me add new oil to the bearings and fill the camshaft oilway at the same time. Once the cams are out the sprockets need to be pulled apart. Remove the circlip and pull the inner sprocket from the splined on outer (should have photographed this as its a work of art) slide the inner home and then – like a Chinese puzzle, feel the sprocket outer into the chain.
Re-installing the cams needs a little jig to hold the cam in the right position whilst the journal caps are torqued down. Without it there is no way to hold the cam as it pushed just one valve almost fully down and therefore, the force of the spring spins the crank.
With the cams torqued back down align the sprocket mounting holes, noting that they are off set on purpose, and then re-engage the splines before replacing the circlip and tightening the bolts… It can be done – but I wouldn’t call it easy…
Once that’s done, there’s just a few bits and bobs to add, such as the flywheel, beforerI can call the block built.
It is a work of art though. Modern engines could never look as pretty…
I think I’m just one blog post from closing the Engine chapter, happy days!